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npub1gcht...wnhs
Remnant. Surfer. Designer.
Went headfirst into shallow reef chasing barrels this morning at a sketchy spot. Could have very easily got knocked out and drowned with nobody around. Probably won’t try that again without a friend - just in case.
My day: Woke up at 4:45. Paddled out at 5:15 for a 3h surf. Killed it at work. 2h sesh after work until sundown. 1h at the gym. Steak dinner. Read and sleep early. Try to repeat tomorrow. GN.